Monday, April 23, 2007

A Florida Keys Album, pg. 5, Parting Shots





TOP: This sign, depicting an unusually affectionate octopus, graces the front of a keys camera store.

This mural, on the side of a bait shop/gas station, shows Calusa Indian maidens playing Show and Tell.

Back in the early 60's this was a private museum called "Art Mckee's Sunken Treasure Fortress." Dad and I were members of Art's "Treasure Diver's Club." While neither dad nor I ever went "treasure diving", we attended some lectures and slide shows, along with about a dozen other folks, including Mickey Spillane and his pnuematic blonde girlfriend, who could upstage any lecturer just by showing up. The original Fortress still stands, complete with hokey ramparts and parapets, but the museum it once housed is long gone, replaced by a Montessori School. The giant spiney lobster out front is a new addition.

BOTTOM: For those lacking families of their own, Key West's Southernmost Point marker sports a ready-made black family on one side, and a Japanese family on the other.

Sunday, April 22, 2007

A Florida Keys Album, pg. 4, the Funky Charms of the Conch Republic






TOP: This primitive one-man human powered minisubmarine sits in the parking lot of Herbie's Diner, in Marathon. It was designed and built by retired naval submarine commander George Kittredge about 40 years ago. You can still find these little deathtraps for sale on the internet, but you'd have to be nuts to go down in one. The happy minnow on a fishhook was also at Herbie's.

MIDDLE: The Conch Republic sign was alongside a trailer in Marathon. Guess the owner got tired of being asked directions.

BOTTOM: When I saw the robot gorilla at Freds Beds I had to check the place out. Co-owner and Lonely Guy Ed Heeney gave me a tour, which included this wonderfully funky shark rotting away on a boat trailer in the back yard. But the real star of the place was Ed's little dog Maggie, who Ed claimed was an irresistible "chick magnet." While we were talking, a girl walked by on the street, and Maggie made a beeline for her, licking her feet until she stopped. This gave Ed the opportunity to strike up a conversation. "See what I mean?" he said later. "Man I love that dog."

Saturday, April 21, 2007

A Florida Keys Album, pg. 3, Indian Key






On day two I rented a kayak at a funky patchwork of businesses referred to collectively as Robbie's Marina, and paddled out to Indian Key, about three-quarters of a mile off Islamorada. It's a State Historic Site, and although ranger-guided tours are no longer given there, it's open to the public.

As keys go, this one's pretty small, about 10 acres. It was settled in the early 1830's. The little community thrived, and was soon designated the seat of Dade County, which at that time included much of southern Florida. Around a town square roughly the size of a football field the 40 to 50 permanent residents constructed streets, a hotel, a hospital, a general store, a blacksmith shop, a warehouse and several dwellings. In 1840 the town was attacked by a band of about 100 Seminoles, who killed a few islanders, including the respected physician and botanist Dr. Henry Perrine, and burned every structure to the ground. All that remains now are the streets, some stone building foundations, a few cisterns, and the original grave of Jacob Housman, who founded the community in 1831, and died ten years later, crushed between two boat hulls during a storm.

Humans quit the key for good about a century ago, leaving it to the tender mercies of the mangroves, poisonwood trees, and hermit crabs.

Thursday, April 19, 2007

A Florida Keys Album, pg. 2




Here are some shots from the Hemingway House. Located in the heart of Key West's Old Town District, it's well worth a visit, despite the nightmarish quest for a parking space within walking distance.

The middle shot was taken from the second floor, looking north. The Key West Lighthouse is in the upper right corner.

Admission is $11, for which you can join a tour or just roam the grounds. Keep an eye out for the polydactyl (6 toed) cats. This one's name is Spanky.

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

A Florida Keys Album



Just back from an all-to-brief working vacation in the keys, shooting for a pictorial book called "Florida's Fabulous Historic Places."

The shotlist included sites in both Key West and Islamorada, so I got a room inbetween, in Marathon. I'd intended to stay at the Hidden Harbor Motel, a quaint combination hostelry and sea turtle hospital, but Hurricane Wilma put the motel part out of commission, most likely for good. So I stayed at the cheap, cheerful Yellowtail Inn. It was quiet and comfortable until the last night, when the Fraternal Order of Water Buffaloes held an impromptu blowout in the next room. Or maybe it was just an earthquake- hard to tell. Thank god for MP3 players.

The first day of the trip was pretty much a washout. As I boarded the 7 Mile Bridge shortly after dawn a heavy squall blew up, pounding the islands for two solid hours, then intermittently the rest of the day. Here's a shot taken that morning, looking north from Spanish Harbor Key, showing the rusted remains of Flagler's Overseas Railway partially obscured by the rain.

The second shot -same subject- was taken that evening, looking southwest from Bahia Honda State Park.

Once the storm let up, everything was Jake. I'll add more shots and text over the next several days.

Saturday, April 7, 2007

Wednesday, April 4, 2007

another Springs story: music lovers

Back around 1972, my future wife and I lived in a small house in Sulphur Springs -- I think it was on Sitka. Next door lived an older couple who we exchanged pleasantries with as we came and went. Eventually, they asked us over for a visit.

Inside, we saw that their house was home to a number (10+) of large, wildcat-sized, cats. These were apparently inside-only cats -- we hadn't previously noticed any cats outside. A little unusual we thought, but lots of people like cats. The house was otherwise fairly clean and well-kept.

We were offered some soda and cookies, and sat on the couch in front of a large console stereo. We soon learned that this was a prized possession, and casually agreed that yes, we would like to hear some music.

As we ate our cookies, drank our soda and chatted, the man put on a succession of country music records. Things were pretty normal except that from the Chipmunks on speed sound of the stereo, it was apparent that the LP records were being played at 45 rpm. We kept thinking that some mistake had been made, but didn't want to embarrass our hosts. However, eventually it seemed our duty to say something. I tried to be diplomatic: "You know, I was thinking that those records might sound better if the stereo was set at another speed". Luckily they weren't offended: "Oh, we know that. We just figured that this way you'll have time to hear more records".

Monday, April 2, 2007

True Tales From Sulphur Springs: The Death Of Al

When somebody hijacked my beatup old garbage cans the other day and dumped garbage all over the yard, it brought to mind the sad fate of my neighbor Al, and how after he died in his shabby Sulphur Springs bungalow, penniless and alone, somebody purloined one of his few possessions -his slop pail- which was full at the time.

As any longterm resident will tell you, Sulphur Springs isn’t what it used to be. When I moved here in the 1970’s, it was quiet and peaceful, and the rent was dirt cheap. They say Kerouac lived here once, although no one seems to know exactly where or when. I’m pretty sure he didn’t live in my house, which was a tiny shack in the shade of a magnificent live oak. I never liked the house much, cheap as it was, but I loved the tree, and spent a lot of quality time in and under it. Mrs. Dillon, who was ninety-five, lived next door. She passed away after a year or two and I acquired her place, which had a new roof and by Sulphur Springs standards was pretty cozy. I’ve lived here ever since.

Al lived across the street. He was about sixty, with skinny legs and a bloated belly. Another neighbor, Larry, looked after Al, and supplied him with beer, smokes, and surplus pastries from the Entenmann’s outlet on Hillsborough. Al had no electricity or water, and when he needed to bathe or drink he went over to Larry’s house, or mine if I wasn’t home, and filled a couple of gallon jugs from the tap outside.

Mrs. Dillon warned me about Al. “Don’t never give him no money”, she said. “Money goes through Al like soup through a goose.” She was right. Once he offered to mow my lawn and I naively paid him ahead of time. Weeks dragged by and the lawn remained uncut. Al made excuse after excuse. His lawnmower was busted. His back hurt. He needed gas. After a couple of months I gave up. I didn’t have much use for him after that.

Al was remarkably adept at maintaining a low profile. Even the Jehovah’s Witnesses, who circle these streets like hungry vultures, left him alone. His front yard, although perpetually weedy, was uncluttered and inconspicuous. There were no trash piles, abandoned appliances or cars on blocks, nothing to draw one’s attention. Most days he could be seen sitting on the steps. His clothes were always clean, his white hair was always neatly combed. After awhile I forgave him, kind of, for the lawn episode, and although we didn’t talk much, we were civil when we did.

One day I was taking a shower and I thought I heard Al yell my name. “Ah shit,” I thought, “I really don’t want to talk to you.” I shut off the water and listened, but heard nothing more. So I went about my business.

The following week Al was nowhere to be seen. Then one morning there was a stench in the air. It was faint at first, but pervasive and inescapable, growing worse as the day wore on. I turned on the AC and cranked the jalousies shut, trapping a number of big green flies. I thought something had died in the attic or there was a problem with the sewer. Around two in the afternoon Larry knocked on my front door. He seemed dazed. “Hey Jim“, he said. “Al’s dead.”

“I guess I should call the police.“ he mumbled, gesturing toward the house. “You don’t wanna go in there.”

We stood in my driveway and watched events unfold. First a firetruck came. Two firemen wearing some kind of scuba gear went inside. After a minute or two they left and a young cop went in. He stumbled out moments later and staggered to his car. Then the Medical Examiner arrived with his assistant. They looked like Jake and Elwood Blues. For them it was business as usual. As they toted Al down the steps in a body bag the postman, looking a little nonplussed, delivered his mail.

Larry opened what windows he could and let the cottage air out overnight. The next day I peeked inside. I couldn’t believe my eyes. In every corner, trash was heaped to the ceiling. One room was inundated with thousands of beer cans, another so packed with rubbish, mostly newspapers and empty Entenmann’s boxes, you couldn’t open the door. The bathroom was indescribably filthy. In the living room, where Al died, there was a hole in the ceiling big enough to drive a garbage truck through. It was the rainy season and everything was soaked. There was a waisthigh mound of soggy butts and ashes -it must have been years in the making- against one wall. Thumbtacked to another wall were a pair of Playboy centerfolds ca. 1973, Al’s only attempt at decor. Beneath them, stacked on a splintered cabinet, were about a hundred dogeared paperbacks, all westerns, mostly Louis L’Amours.

Al rode into the sunset on a spavined leatherette divan in the center of the room. Next to it there was a galvanized bucket filled with excrement. Larry made a little joke about it, about how glad he was Al hadn’t kicked it.

These are the things I saw, before the smell drove me outside.

Larry let the house air out another day. The next morning he stopped by with a bizarre update. “You ain’t gonna believe this,” he said. “Last night somebody stole that bucket.”

That sort of mischief, while not so unnerving as a drive-by, doesn’t bode well for any neighborhood. But I wasn’t really surprised. Like I said, Sulphur Springs isn’t what it used to be.

Al died hard. Felled, according to the Medical Examiner, by some sort of massive gastrointestinal hemorrhage. He was buried in a pauper’s grave in Bushnell. He left the house to Larry. Not counting the paperbacks and the bucket, that was the extent of his legacy. Larry told me the last time Al worked was over thirty years ago, as a caddy. We decided he'd been dead for many years, he just hadn’t realized it.

-walkin' tree

Sunday, April 1, 2007

Feeding Limpkin


Although limpkins typically eat apple snails, this one was snacking on freshwater clams. Photographed in the Hillsborough River, at Tampa's Rowlett Park.

-walkin' tree

The Peace Of Wild Things


When despair for the world grows in me
and I wake in the night at the least sound
in fear of what my life and my children's lives may be,
I go and lie down where the wood drake
rests in his beauty on the water, and the great heron feeds.

I come into the peace of wild things
who do not tax their lives with forethought
of grief. I come into the presence of still water.
And I feel above me the day-blind stars
waiting with their light. For a time
I rest in the grace of the world, and am free.

-Wendell Berry